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Day 12: Take me BAK(lava) for tea!

  • Writer: Marlena Skrabak
    Marlena Skrabak
  • Jun 20, 2019
  • 3 min read

Updated: Aug 15, 2019

Having spent the previous night scarfing down loads of Nutella on the Seine, I ended up not having time to complete my research for the next day of arrondissement exploring. Therefore, I switched my Nutella for coffee in the morning and scarfed down cups upon cups as I found out more on the 5ème.

The first stop on the day's plan was l'Institut du Monde Arabe, an architecturally modern building with a library, restaurant, and museum that contained a melange of ancient and contemporary Arab art. It was striking as a unique display that steered away from the more conventional temporal arrangement of exhibits.

To note, the more contemporary pieces felt very dark and troubled, as some may have come from the frustration of the stereotype that turns into racism. Art is a beautiful educator, and here, it struck me so clearly as that.

Taking the transparent elevator up to the 9th floor, a serene rooftop opens up before the viewer's eyes. Unable to have tea or mezzes this time, it is on my list for the next.

Next was a lovely walk through Jardin des Plantes, among a broad array of plants with little labels for teaching purposes. The Museum of Natural History spanned out before me as I walked through the rectangular garden to the Grand Mosquée.

I made a straight b-line for the tea, an absolute must. Sitting down in the delicate courtyard surrounded by white walls on cobalt blue chairs with olive trees providing the right amount of shade and privacy, I felt more peaceful than I have in a long time. I decided I needed a pastry to go with my golden tea that was pre-sweetened to perfection. A roll of the most delicious baklava I have had in my entire life (i.e. the flaky, crumbly pastry fell apart in my mouth) later, it was time to head to l'ENS.

Similar to the tall surrounding hedges and quiet park of the Jardin des Plantes, the Grand Mosquée also felt like I stepped into another world, one far away from the bustling city of Paris.

École Normale Supérieure (ENS) is essentially like a graduate school in the United States, or at least that is the equivalent that I find. This arrondissement was full of schools, some of the best in the country. Although architecturally different from Harvard, the sentiment was relatable. There seemed to be knowledge radiating off the buildings, like the people walking the streets were currently making major breakthroughs as the rest of us are just strolling by, utterly oblivious.

I am a nerd. I can claim that. Therefore, I found the Pasteur Institute along with the Curie Museum as place of excitement. Walking into Marie Curie's old lab, I felt that I had gone back in time.

Standing in the same garden where Curie stood, I became suddenly aware of my feet on the soil as anachronistic. History can strike hard.

A walk through Luxembourg, almost a ritual now, and the arrival at Reid Hall for class, I knew today would be interesting.

An author was coming in to speak of his experience in the French school system, and then further elaborate on his biography: Bolewa Sabourin. I will not say more because the book is one that needs to be read. La Rage de Vivre, already mentioned here, will be translated into English.

I will say this. His portrayal of the French educational system hit home; my experience and my dislike of the rigidity of the system and the destructive nature of the overt competitiveness is something that he described so eloquently, it was a reassuring feeling that I was not the only one who saw the system as a hurtful and stagnant one (I am also not saying that the American system is the right one; they both have their problems).

Right as I sat down for dinner in the evening, it started to torrentially pour and I was thankful for the perfect timing.

Even though I was looking forward to a warm meal, all I really wanted was more baklava.


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